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Thursday 08 June 2011
Allen Meadows' Burghound: 2009 Whites
Burghound.com
Louis-Fabrice Latour and winemaker Jean-Charles Thomas told me that 2009 is an "excellent vintage that should be extremely popular. It's ripe, the acids are average to slightly below average and thus the wines will be more accessible young. However, they should age well too because there is reasonably good concentration and the supporting phenolics are quite ripe. Because of the elevated levels of ripeness we elected to start bottling in November to preserve as much freshness as possible. The wines were already drinking well and we didn't see anything further to be gained by leaving them in cask.” Latour went on to observe that he prefers 2009 to 1999 as he believes that it is more consistent.

2009 Beaune "Clos St. Désiré”: A pungent nose of straw, citrus and pear aromas leads to admirably well-detailed and quite pure flavors that possess both good freshness and energy on the dry and clean if not especially complex finish. 87/2013+

2009 Meursault: (10% new wood with 40% raised in stainless). A classic Meursault nose of hazelnut, white peach and soft pear aromas gives way to fresh, vibrant and energetic middle weight flavors that culminate in a lingering if mildly bitter finish. My note assumes that the bitterness will quickly dissipate as I suspect that it's sulfur-related. 88/2014+

2009 Meursault-Château de Blagny: A relatively reserved nose featured notes of lemon rind, acacia blossom and a hint of wet stone that carries over to the rich and round yet nicely detailed and energetic flavors that possess good underlying tension on the attractively lemony finish. I like the balance and delivery as this is light on the palate but not banal. 90/2015+

2009 Meursault "Poruzots”: Mild reduction diminishes slightly the expressiveness of the otherwise ripe green fruit and grapefruit-suffused nose that complements well the relatively powerful and concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess more complexity and a bit more length as well but at the cost of less refinement. A qualitative choice. 90/2015+

2009 Meursault "Goutte d'Or”: A notably ripe nose of lemon, apple and peach aromas stops just short of being exotic as the extremely fresh and vibrant medium weight flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration that coats the mouth on the serious and admirably persistent if not especially refined finish. Still, this offers both more overall depth as well as finishing persistence and is the better effort. Worth a look. 91/2015+

2009 Meursault "Charmes”: This is riper still and here there are quiet whispers of exotic fruit though no surmaturité to the fresh lemon, mango and apricot infused nose. There is fine richness and impressive volume to the sappy, delicious and mouth coating flavors that possess a suave, even silky texture on the long finish. This is really quite stylish. 91/2015+

2009 Meursault "Genevrières”: This offers a small step up in aromatic elegance with subtly, and attractively, spiced notes of citrus and, somewhat curiously, sauvignon blanc that merge seamlessly into rich, round and quite generous medium-bodied flavors that brim with an profusion of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm acid spine on the delicious and mouth coating finish. 90/2014+

2009 Meursault "Perrières”: A more elegant and higher-toned if not necessarily more complex nose puts on display lemonlime, wet stone, green apple and dried floral hints that slide gracefully into pure, detailed, intense and explosive middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate fat and outstanding persistence on the balanced finish. A terrific Perrières. 92/2016+

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet: A yellow orchard fruit, resin and mildly earthy character precedes the rich and relatively fullbodied flavors that possess good mid-palate concentration and a textured mouth feel on the delicious and moderately complex finish that delivers good if not special length. A solid villages. 88/2014+

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet "Grande Montagne”: A finer but still earthy and serious nose adorned by soft wood notes offers a broad panoply of orchard fruit and citrus elements where the latter is also reflected by the rich, powerful and delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess solid amounts of dry extract that buffers well the moderately firm acid spine on the balanced, intense and reasonably persistent finish. 89/2014+

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet "Morgeot”: Here too there is a slight touch of reduction though again not really enough to detract from the appeal of the ripe aromas of white flowers, citrus zest, resin and peach that combine with detailed, muscular and intense middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate concentration and excellent finishing persistence. A classic Morgeot that is perhaps a bit finer than usual. 90/2015+

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet "Caillerets”: A restrained and distinctly elegant aromatic profile presents pure, airy and relatively high-toned white flower, stone and dried yellow fruit aromas that are in keeping with the surprisingly rich and fullbodied flavors that retain a fine sense of cut and copious underlying material as there is lovely concentration to the textured, precise and seductive mouth feel, especially on the powerful and long finish. Overall, this is not quite as refined in the mouth as it usually is but it's still an attractive effort. 91/2015+

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet "Baudines”: While notably ripe, this is actually quite cool with an elegant and pure nose of wet stone, white flower and lemon zest aromas that are trimmed in a deft touch of toast before merging into rich, clean and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors that possess a fine sense of underlying tension on the mouth coating and very dry finish that lingers nicely. This could use just a bit more depth but the balance is so good as is the underlying material that my score offers the benefit of the doubt that additional complexity will develop in bottle. 91/2015+

2009 Puligny-Montrachet: A very light touch of reduction diminishes only slightly the appeal of the detailed and quite stylish nose of acacia blossom and white orchard fruit aromas. There is good vibrancy and a hint of minerality on the delicious, round and satisfying flavors that possess good punch on the balanced and focused finish. A lovely villages. 89/2014+

2009 Puligny-Montrachet "La Garenne”: A pungent green fruit and dried rose petal nose is followed by citrus and stone suffused flavors that possess a generous and fleshy mouth feel, all wrapped in a delicious and seductive finish. This doesn't quite have the complexity of the best of these 1ers but it's certainly attractive in its fashion. 90/2014+

2009 Puligny-Montrachet "Truffières”: A discreet touch of wood frames pure and airy aromas of well-layered ripe white orchard fruit and acacia blossom aromas that are in keeping with the equally complex middle weight flavors that are textured, racy and detailed before culminating in an intensely mineral-driven, dry and refined finish of admirable length. A classy and exceptionally stylish wine of finesse and balance. 92/2016+

2009 Puligny-Montrachet "Les Folatières”: Despite the presence of a bit of unabsorbed sulfur the nose remains quite expressive and agreeably fresh with intense citrus, spiced pear and stone hints serving as an elegant introduction to the delicious, delineated and racy medium-bodied flavors that are blessed with good cut and a real sense of underlying tension on the balanced finish. This is a lovely and harmonious effort. 92/2016+

2009 Corton-Charlemagne: (100% from vines in Aloxe and all domaine fruit). A discreet touch of wood sets off aromas of dried rose petal, lemon grass and green apple that precede rich, full and obviously well-muscled big-bodied flavors that possess an intense minerality on the powerful, driving and palate staining finish that delivers simply terrific persistence. This imposing effort is most impressive and should offer up to a decade of potential improvement. 93/2017+

2009 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet: There is a distinct lactic note that presently dominates the nose and I would strongly suggest decanting this if you're going to try one young. Otherwise the broad-shouldered flavors are lavishly rich, full-bodied and well-detailed with a taut muscularity on the deep, long and driving finish blessed with ample dry extract. This is impressively scaled and my note assumes that the nose will clean up as this bold and striking effort ages. 93?/2017+

2009 Chevalier-Montrachet "Les Demoiselles”: A reserved and almost inexpressive nose features an ever-so-mildly exotic fruit array that is fresh and reluctantly perfumed while displaying a spiced citrus and pungent mineral character that continues onto the pure, detailed, intense and driving full-bodied flavors that exude a wonderful sense of underlying tension on the palate staining finish that lasts and lasts. This is really quite dry and the inherent classiness of Demoiselles is on parade and about the only departure from a classic vintage would be that the '09 version is a bit more opulent than normal. 95/2019+

2009 Bâtard-Montrachet: (from 95% Puligny fruit). This is clearly very ripe but it stops short of exhibiting exotic aromas with white flower, citrus and a background touch of honey leading to big, rich and concentrated broad-scaled flavors that possess copious amounts of dry extract that completely buffer the firm acid spine before culminating in a palate staining and explosive finish. Like the Corton-Charlemagne, this is an imposing wine yet it remains well-balanced and superbly long. 94/2019+

2009 Montrachet: This is also quite reserved and almost aromatically mute though there is excellent power, weight and sizeto the big, powerful and concentrated flavors that possess almost painful intensity and despite the sheer scale of this wine, there is no sense of undue heaviness or blurriness as there is actually fine delineation on the stunningly long finish. This won't win any awards as the most elegant Latour Montrachet of the decade but fans of power Montrachet will love this and rightly so as it is extremely impressive. 95/2021+