Friday 17 February 2011
The World of Fine Wine - March 2011
2009 Burgundy: the smiling face of a welcome and welcoming vintage
Although it has unfairly overshadowed 2008, there is no doubt that 2009 offers a winning combination of quality and quantity—for whites as well as for reds, urges michael Edwards.



Romanée-st-Vivant grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux

ME: Fine, violet-tinted robe, seductive, spiced violets-over-rocks bouquet, complex and intense; a sensuous, silken texture enhances the impression given by the nose; new oak adds a vanilla-richness, but is quite assertive for now. Needs time to integrate. 17.5


Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Cailleret

ME: Aerien wafting aromas typical of Cailleret— fine delicate, without loss of intensity. 17

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Maltroie
ME: Fine savory flavors to this racy premier cru, subtle grained texture in the mouth with a sugrging rather than explosive intensity towards the finale. 16.5 (should go higher)

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot
ME: Intense, green-gold; all the matière, richness and weight of Morgeot but all well balanced. Shows well already. 16.5

Meursault Premier Cru Château de Blagny
ME: Lustrous gold. On both nose and palate, minerality, precision, with a burgeoning richness. Plenty of substance, withal. Ageworthy. 17

Meursault Premier Cru Perrières
ME: Welsh gold; lovely mineral core with crystalline fruit. Linear yet with '09 generosity— long, rapier-like finale. 17.5

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Sous le Puits
ME: Pale gold, green flecks; lightly spiced aromas—a subtle wine with pretty fruit for relatively early drinking. 16.5

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Folatières
ME: Pale, refined, straw-green; fine-drawn expression of perfectly ripe fruit aromas—very well judged balance of gras and minerality in the mouth. Fantail finish. Class. 17

Bâtard-montrachet Grand Cru
ME: Stronger color than the Chevalier. Big and gras but with fine compensating mineral tones. Good length and intensity. Not too fat. 17

Chevalier-montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles
ME: Seamless delicate green-gold; majestic grand cru calcaire scents, haunting, restrained. Magnificent, complete flavors of a complexity that defies adequate description (quite usual at this level). There is a strong oak presence for now, but it will integrate with the years, such is the intensity of this very great wine. 10 years+ 19

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
ME: Very youthtful pale gold, green-flecked; lovely profile of sweet, ripe grand cru fruit, friendlier at this point than usual but with great potential for aging. Terrific length and definition. 18


Bourgogne blanc Cuvée Latour

ME: Slightly fuller color than the Mâcon. Proper Bourgogne blanc scents of the côtes. Textured, spicy, opulent but balanced fruit—a very good glass of white burgundy at a kind price. 16.5

Mâcon-Lugny Les Genièvres

ME: Green-gold; attractive aromas midway between flowers and fruit. Fresh, fine fruit/ mineral mouthfeel, fixed with a paperclip of acidity. Good, verging on excellent. 16

Montagny Premier Cru La Grande Roche
ME: Flowers and lime nose; a sleek, sculptured mouthfeel, typical Montagny herb-touched fruit, well defined and ripe. Good length. 16