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Friday 17 February 2011
The World of Fine Wine - March 2011
2009 Burgundy: the smiling face of a welcome and welcoming vintage
Although it has unfairly overshadowed 2008, there is no doubt that 2009 offers a winning combination of quality and quantity—for whites as well as for reds, urges michael Edwards.

LOUIS LATOUR

COTE DE NUITS

Romanée-st-Vivant grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux

ME: Fine, violet-tinted robe, seductive, spiced violets-over-rocks bouquet, complex and intense; a sensuous, silken texture enhances the impression given by the nose; new oak adds a vanilla-richness, but is quite assertive for now. Needs time to integrate. 17.5

COTE DE BEAUNE

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Cailleret

ME: Aerien wafting aromas typical of Cailleret— fine delicate, without loss of intensity. 17

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Maltroie
ME: Fine savory flavors to this racy premier cru, subtle grained texture in the mouth with a sugrging rather than explosive intensity towards the finale. 16.5 (should go higher)

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot
ME: Intense, green-gold; all the matière, richness and weight of Morgeot but all well balanced. Shows well already. 16.5

Meursault Premier Cru Château de Blagny
ME: Lustrous gold. On both nose and palate, minerality, precision, with a burgeoning richness. Plenty of substance, withal. Ageworthy. 17

Meursault Premier Cru Perrières
ME: Welsh gold; lovely mineral core with crystalline fruit. Linear yet with '09 generosity— long, rapier-like finale. 17.5

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Sous le Puits
ME: Pale gold, green flecks; lightly spiced aromas—a subtle wine with pretty fruit for relatively early drinking. 16.5

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Folatières
ME: Pale, refined, straw-green; fine-drawn expression of perfectly ripe fruit aromas—very well judged balance of gras and minerality in the mouth. Fantail finish. Class. 17

Bâtard-montrachet Grand Cru
ME: Stronger color than the Chevalier. Big and gras but with fine compensating mineral tones. Good length and intensity. Not too fat. 17

Chevalier-montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles
ME: Seamless delicate green-gold; majestic grand cru calcaire scents, haunting, restrained. Magnificent, complete flavors of a complexity that defies adequate description (quite usual at this level). There is a strong oak presence for now, but it will integrate with the years, such is the intensity of this very great wine. 10 years+ 19

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
ME: Very youthtful pale gold, green-flecked; lovely profile of sweet, ripe grand cru fruit, friendlier at this point than usual but with great potential for aging. Terrific length and definition. 18

COTE CHALONNAISE AND MACONNAIS

Bourgogne blanc Cuvée Latour

ME: Slightly fuller color than the Mâcon. Proper Bourgogne blanc scents of the côtes. Textured, spicy, opulent but balanced fruit—a very good glass of white burgundy at a kind price. 16.5

Mâcon-Lugny Les Genièvres

ME: Green-gold; attractive aromas midway between flowers and fruit. Fresh, fine fruit/ mineral mouthfeel, fixed with a paperclip of acidity. Good, verging on excellent. 16

Montagny Premier Cru La Grande Roche
ME: Flowers and lime nose; a sleek, sculptured mouthfeel, typical Montagny herb-touched fruit, well defined and ripe. Good length. 16