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Thursday 01 July 2009
2007 Whites from Côte de Beaune- Allen Meadows
Burghound.com, July 2009
COTE DE BEAUNE- THE 2007 VINTAGES

Maison Louis Latour

Louis-Fabrice Latour and winemaker Jean-Charles Thomas (Jean-Pierre Jobard has now retired) told me that 2007 "was not easy. The growing season jump started things but then a mediocre summer complicated matters, especially in certain sectors. We bought only very selectively as quality was variable and bulk prices remain high. There was a lot of sorting to do in our domaine parcels and then we did a relatively soft vinification, emphasizing the ‘pinot-noirness' of the wines. They are very fresh and reflect their terroirs well and we were surprised as to how much weight they put on after the malos finished. Overall, the ‘07s have turned out well and I think that our clients will like the wines quite a bit if they will simply try them first.” As in 2004, there is no Corton-Grancey. Latour explained that they just didn't feel that the quality was where it needed to be given that Corton-Grancey is one of their three flag ship wines. Note that there is a domaine-based Corton but it's not Corton-Grancey. (Louis Latour, Inc./Ltd., www.louislatour.com, US, UK, France).

2007 Marsannay: A fresh and quite floral nose of earthy and mildly rustic red berry fruit aromas that leads to round, supple and nicely detailed flavors that possess both good intensity and persistence though the finish is a bit dry. (85-87)/2011+

2007 Savigny-lès-Beaune: A very fresh and classic Savigny nose of red berry fruit, pungent earth and a hint of the sauvage introduces round, supple and delicious flavors that are on the light side and mostly fruit driven but pretty enough. 86/2011+

2007 Chassagne-Montrachet: A more deeply pitched and slightly peppery nose jumps from the glass to reveal ripe raspberry and cherry aromas that complement the attractively textured flavors that possess a bit more underlying material on the sappy finish. This isn't overly complex but on an overall basis, it's more interesting. 87/2011+

2007 Aloxe-Corton "Les Chaillots”: An attractively fresh nose features a very pinot nose that is nuanced with hints of earth and a touch of crushed leaf that gives way to round, supple and delicious flavors that also possess a touch of vegetal yet rather than being a sign of under ripeness, it seems to add a touch of depth to the solidly persistent finish. 88/2012+

2007 Beaune: A fresh and reasonably elegant nose displays moderately ripe red pinot fruit and raspberry aromas that carry a touch of earth and underbrush over to the supple, forward and easy to like barely middle weight flavors that are vibrant and tangy but also a bit dry on the lingering finish. I would enjoy this young to avoid any risk of it drying out. 86/2010+

2007 Beaune "Perrières”: Mild reduction detracts from the purity of the nose which is built primarily on red berry fruit and earth notes, the latter of which is picked up by the supple, round and notably more concentrated medium-bodied flavors that are nicely detailed and reveal a discreet touch of backend minerality on the firmer and more persistent finish. (88-90)/2013+

2007 Volnay "En Chevret”: A ripe though not especially elegant nose offers up rather somber and restrained dark berry fruit aromas that are followed by textured and sappy flavors that are quite firm and even a touch rustic. While not an unbalanced effort, it's seems clear that this is at an awkward stage so soon after bottling. 88/2013+

2007 Pommard "Les Epenots”: Red raspberry and blue berry aromas trimmed in subtle warm earth notes merge into rich and round flavors that are both very fresh and possess better volume as well as reasonably good mid-palate concentration as well as better finishing depth. There is, simply put, just more here. (88-90)/2013+

2007 Chambolle-Musigny: Light ruby. A high-toned nose of primarily red cherry and raspberry is in keeping with the very supple light weight flavors that are delicious and focused with a pretty touch of minerality but one wishes for just a bit more weight. There's no denying however the appeal of the extremely pretty fruit. 87/2011+

2007 Nuits St. Georges "Les Damodes”: A discreetly spicy, earthy and mildly sauvage nose that is primarily from the red side of the spectrum introduces attractively rich and detailed middle weight flavors that display a subtle touch of minerality on the delicious, vibrant and solidly persistent finish. (89-91)/2013+

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin: This is perhaps the most complex of all the villages wines in the range with an earthy, fresh and slightly sauvage red berry fruit nose that complements the rich, round and forward barely middle weight flavors that are not especially structured though there is reasonably good material supporting the persistent finish. Pretty enough. 88/2012+

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin "Cazetiers: A ripe and pretty yet entirely serious nose of game, earth, underbrush and red pinot fruit notes complements the supple, round and overtly mineral infused flavors that are delicious but underpinned by relatively ripe tannins that suggest 6 to 8 years of cellar potential. 89/2014+

2007 Vosne-Romanée: A subtle spiciness adds interest and nuance to the lovely, airy and very Vosne-like nose that gives way to rich, round and delicious if only moderately complex flavors that possess an attractive texture on the reasonably persistent finish. There is a small hole on the mid-palate though and it lacks just a bit of overall coherency to be at the next level. 87/2011+

2007 Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaumonts”: Here the nose offers a big step up in elegance and refinement with cool and very subtly spicy aromas that mix both red and blue pinot fruit plus the fine minerality of a classically structured Beaumonts that continues onto the sophisticated, detailed and pure flavors that are quite stylish if not necessarily especially concentrated.Still, there is a lovely harmony of expression and overall, this is really quite pretty. 89/2013+

2007 Corton: (from domaine fruit). Light ruby. An interesting if not overly complex nose of red and black cherry with earth nuances make for a less than dramatic introduction to the round, easy, forward and supple flavors that are also on the light side though the finish tightens up enough to suggest that cellar time is definitely needed. Moreover, the finish offers much better depth than can be found on the nose. In sum, this isn't a bad wine so much as it's not very typical by the standards of what one expects from a classic Corton. (87-90)/2014+

2007 Echézeaux: (a blend of different climats). This too is notably ripe and quite naturally spicy with a beautiful mélange of red and blue berry fruit, violets and hints of anise and clove that can also be found on the rich, full and delicious medium weight plus flavors that possess a lovely mouth feel if perhaps a bit less power than usual but with excellent length. 91/2014+

2007 Clos de Vougeot: An earthy, serious and relatively tactiturn nose of underbrush suffused red and dark berry fruit that is followed by rich, full and relatively powerful and full flavors that are quite solidly structured in the context of the vintage while delivering impressive length on the youthfully austere finish. A classically proportioned Clos de Vougeot. 92/2015+

2007 Charmes-Chambertin: A beguiling nose that is highly complex and very ripe, indeed this is the ripest wine in the range with earthy and underbrush suffused red and dark berry fruit aromas preceding rich, full and mouth coating flavors that possess solid volume and mid-palate density, all wrapped in a mouth coating and beautifully persistent finish. 92/2014+

2007 Bonnes Mares: This is also quite complex though, at this point at least, not quite as layered and interesting as the Charmes with a ripe, pure and elegant nose of freshly crushed raspberries and a background note of warm earth that introduces more complex, rich and notably ripe flavors that are relatively forward for a young Bonnes Mares and culminate in a linear, balanced and solidly persistent finish. Like most of the wines in the range, this is not especially concentrated but makes up for it with fine balance and more finesse than one typically finds with this appellation. 91/2014+

2007 Chambertin-Cuvée Héritiers Latour: This is very cool and restrained on the airy, layered and impressively complex nose that offers up notes of smoke, game, red pinot fruit and ample amounts of earth and underbrush, both of which can be found on the minerally flavors that culminate in an understated, persistent and mouth coating finish. This is not a big wine by the typical standards of a classic Chambertin, indeed it's quite fine but certainly attractive in its fashion. 91/2015+

2007 Romanée St. Vivant - Les Quatre Journaux: A wonderfully spicy, elegant and exuberant nose of red berry fruit and violets complements to perfection the classy and stylish middle weight flavors that are not especially concentrated or powerful but the refinement, purity and balance here are strikingly impressive, all wrapped in a finish offering outstanding length. A wine of harmony and transparency. 93/2014+

2006 Chambertin-Cuvée Héritiers Latour: An unusually expressive but cool and airy red berry fruit nose with background notes of a liqueur cassis character trimmed in a subtle touch of wood that adds to the impression of ripeness that further extends to the energetic, punchy and obviously mineral-infused flavors that possess fine detail and intensity on the reserved, firm but not aggressive and youthfully austere finish. This is balanced, long and serious yet quite stylish. 91/2014+

2006 Romanée St. Vivant - Les Quatre Journaux: As one would reasonably expect, this is at once more elegant and spicier with a lovely panoply of rose petal, violets, anise, cinnamon and clove adding nuance to the largely red berry fruit aromas that are very pure and highly expressive while introducing classy and wonderfully complex, intense and detailed flavors that possess ample minerality on the balanced and refined finish. This is very RSV in character and displays real breed. The Chambertin is bigger and more powerful whereas this is more sophisticated and refined. A qualitative choice.91/2014+